"A cyclone warning has been issued. A Category One cyclone is apporaching the north Queensland coast and is likely to hit tomorrow (Monday) morning. Please be advised that we may need to enter your room to tape the windows if necessary. We recommend that all guests stock up on water and tinned goods. We will advise you of further developments at 11am."
That, over the hostel's tannoy, was my alarm call last Sunday morning. After a few seconds, I soon started to panic... "Cyclone? Stock up on tinned goods? But, excuse me, I have a flight to Ayers Rock tomorrow!!! What if the airport is closed? Oh my goodness, if I can't get to Ayers Rock then I will miss my tour and there is no refund and and there will be no point me going but I have to go just to catch my flight back to Sydney and if I don't get back to Sydney I will miss my flight to Perth and I can't get a refund for that... aaarrrrrgggggghhhhhhh!!!" And, so that was how I spent most of Sunday, I didn't leave my room, I read The Horse Whisperer from cover to cover instead and didn't get to see Cairns at all, even though I'd spent 4 nights there!
I even phoned Qantas (again!) to check if the airport was still open, which at that stage it was, but I was terrified that by the following morning, things would have worsened. I could have transferred onto a flight that day, but I would literally had to have put the phone down then and there, run back into the hostel to pick up my belongings and taken a taxi straight to the airport. Not likely, as I panic if I'm not in an airport before check-in usually opens, never mind trying to make it there with seconds to spare! My ear was still blocked and I was feeling pretty ,miserable for most of the day, but after a while, I realised that I wasn't panicking anymore, well not physically... I had stopped shaking and I had reached an internal level of calm. I don't know if deep down I knew it would all be OK, or maybe I had accepted the outcome as being a disaster but I'd get over it... either way (despite my initial panic), I was not me anymore, I was new and improved calm Emma. She's great, you should meet her!
When I awoke on Monday morning, the weather was surprisingly calm, especially as I was expecting a full-on cyclone by that point! As it turned out, it had hit Mission Beach, a few hours south, in the night, and hadn't caused much of a stir anyway. I told the lady at airport security, as she screened me for explosives, all about my tribulations the previous day. She thought it was ridiculous that they'd advised us to stock up on supplies and that it would have delayed, but not cancelled, flights. Once in Ayers Rock Resort, I took great delight in telling the hostel porter all about my adventure. It turned out that he was from Cairns originally and that Queenslanders wouldn't bat an eyelid at a Category One! When a Brit hears "cyclone warning" I don't think it is unreasonable to panic... we wiped all the supermarkets clean of bread and milk in 2000 just because the petrol tanker drivers went on strike! Nobody told me that Category One was the lowest threat! Anyway...
It is bloody hot in the Outback, I good forty degrees in the day and still well over twenty-five at night! I did a bit of laundry and it was dry within a very short time. I was really hot, but it was dry heat and it actually felt good to sweat and not be soaking wet as I was all through Asia! Evaporation worked once more! It also meant that dehydration was a very serious risk and so I drank a lot of tap water. Unfortunately, there is no such thing as cold tap water out there, and so I resigned myself to a week of drinking warm water... bleck!
On Tuesday afternoon, I was off on my adventure around the Red Centre at last. It took a fair bit of rescheduling and panic to get here, but the moment had arrived! I spent that afternoon trundling across the Northern Territory to meet the rest of my tour group and then making our way to Kings Canyon Resort to camp for the first night. I was really lucky and was joining just four more people for our tour - Evie (Italy), Will (UK), Morane (Israel) and Kellie (Sydney). That's right, an Australian who has actually been to Ayers Rock, and for the second time nonetheless!!! That night, we all mucked in to make a superb Spaghetti Bolognese (despite most of the ingredients being missing...) and were soon ready to get into our swags and lie out under the stars: although Morane was most concerned about the spiders and we didn't tell her about the huntsman that had been watching us prepare dinner! At last, I wasn't the one in a tour group that was most freaked out by insects, I had even been on moth and cricket removal duty! Then it really began...
On Wednesday, we were up at 4.30 am, breakfasted and packed away and in the bus by 5.45am, off to walk Kings Canyon at sunrise! We even spotted a few dingoes on route! When we arrived at the canyon, we were faced with the initial ascent up "Heart Attack Hill" but were assured that that would be the worst part over with first! Good job really, as it was quite hot, even though the sun had not yet risen! Once up at the top though, it was great fun and we saw some amazing views and found out all about the area and the flora and fauna within. After covering 6 kilometres in the morning heat, we spent most of the day (with a stop for lunch) back on the bus, to make the 300km trip back to Kata Tjuta (or The Olgas). It was a good job that there were only the 5 of us, plus our guide Jane, as we could sprawl out in the bus, in an attempt to nap and stay cool in the +40 heat. The air con became useless, even on full blast, as the weather was so hot outside!

Jumping for joy at Kata Tjuta!
Once at Kata Tjuta, I was incredibly grateful for the stupidly expensive flynet I'd bought back at the Resort, as the little b*ggers were everywhere! I was also pleased that I'd put on a long-sleeved shirt and long trousers that morning, as they were absolutely relentless. However, it didn't spoil out visit as we walked for a few more kms around the rocks. It was really impressive and despite the temperature, it was well worth it! Then, after taking some fun pictures, we were off again to... Uluru! We got there nice and early, and found a great spot to sit and enjoy our 'champagne' and snacks whilst watching the world's most famous rock at sunset! At this point, I feel duty bound to warn you, dear readers, that one mug of sparkling wine is more than sufficient to get you rather tiddly: if you have been walking and riding hot buses for 12 hours, you are likely to be quite dehydrated and so alcohol becomes rather more potent! So much so, that even though I took way too many pictures of Uluru, not one of them had me on it as I'd forgot to ask someone to take one! Whoops!
Back at camp, none of us really had the energy to cook dinner, but somehow we managed it and had a birthday cake for Evie (who had only told us about it just before we got to Uluru!) Then it was swag time again and I was awakened in the small hours by the howls of dingoes in the distance! Brilliant!!! Not so brilliant was the 4am start to get back to Uluru for sunrise, but we managed it! Again I took way too many photos, but I knew that this was my one chance to visit this magical place and I'd probably never be back. Morane and Kellie were ready to head off after a while to get started on the base walk before the sun got too hot, but they very kindly humoured me and waited until the sun had cleared the horizon so I could take snaps of every possible colour variation possible!
We were then taken on the guided Mala Walk at the start of the base walk and I was feeling pretty dodgy by the end of it, even though it was all shaded. I asked if the base walk was compulsory, and from Jane's expression, it seemed that it indeed was... we were to set off unguided and walk all around the perimeter of Uluru and it would take us about 2 hours. If it had been a partial walk, I think I would have opted out, but I knew that I couldn't miss this chance to make it all the way around. So off we set and very soon we were out of the shadows and in the full glare of the sun, which was incredibly powerful at only 8.30am. In short, at the start it was hellish as there was no breeze at all and we were all feeling the effects of the previous day's exertion, but Uluru was so spectacular, it was well worth it and luckily by the end of it, I didn't feel as bad. It was absolutely amazing, I'm just glad that I bought high capacity memory cards for my camera! Well worth it... even though we were amazed to learn that we'd covered 9kms in that heat and survived!

Uluru - absolutely amazing!
After a visit to the Cultural Centre, it was time to head back to camp for lunch and then our tour was over, but I was pleased to find that Kellie and Morane were staying at back at Outback Pioneer Lodge with me, so our time was not yet over! So we were dropped off and we said our goodbyes to Evie, Will & Jane (who still had a long drive back to Alice Springs!) After we checked in at the hostel, I dumped my bags back in the dorm and jumped straight in the pool, it was the only way to escape the heat! I then attempted to nap in the dorm, but the air-con wasn't working properly as despite being absolutely shattered, I just couldn't sleep in the heat!
I met up with Kellie & Morane later that afternoon and joined them back in the pool for another dip, by this point we had it all to ourselves! It even started to rain and some pretty big grey clouds rolled in overhead. The sky looked very threatening, at which point I said "I'd love it now if it just went (very convincing thunder sounds)!" No sooner as I stopped speaking, did the air rip open and an almighty rumble broke above us. "And I'd just love a million dollars!" I retorted... which had us all in stitches for about 10 minutes! I guess you had to be there!
Yesterday, it was time to leave the Red Centre and head back to civilisation and I was sharing the flight back to Sydney with... Kellie and Morane! I've met so many great people on this trip so far, but usually we move on in separate directions, so it was great to spend a little extra time with my new friends. The flight was fine, although Morane did not enjoy the turbulence and I had to watch the in-flight movie with only one functional earpiece! Back at Sydney, domestic arrivals was extremely easy and Kellie kindly offered me a lift back to the Sydney Central YHA (well, better the devil you know!). But then it was time to say our goodbyes and I promised to stay in touch and to one day visit Morane in Paris (where she lives at the moment) or in Tel Aviv (where she may be living if she goes back to Israel) - either way, I'll be chuffed to meet up again and see another new place!
This morning, I was up early AGAIN and back at the airport to board my Virgin Blue flight to Perth. We were due to board at 8.45am, but it was soon obvious there would be a delay. As I waited in the departure lounge, I could overhear many conversations and I soon learned that yesterday, TWO flights to Perth had been grounded and hundreds of passengers had to stay overnight in Sydney! It wasn't looking good, but surely that couldn't happen to three planes in a row...? Alas, yes it could, and to cut a long story short, we were delayed for over three hours and we had to get a new plane which was smaller and so people were asked to volunteer to take a later flight via Adelaide! I remained quite calm throughout, albeit quite bored, as I no longer had a tight schedule to work to and there were way more people in the departure lunge worse off than me.. plus, I got a free $6 voucher to spend on the plane!!!
So here I am in Western Australia at last! I managed to text Mark to advise him of the delay and he kindly collected me from the airport this afternoon. It was quite funny; as I was saying hello to him, I spotted a cute little beagle sniffing around my legs. "Hello, little guy, aren't you lovely?" It was only when its handler asked me if I had any fruit with me did I realise he was a sniffer dog and he'd made a beeline for me!!! What a fool! No, I didn't have any fruit, I assured the lady and started to empty out my bags all over Arrivals to prove it, but then I remembered that there had been an orange in my bag yesterday and that was probably the cause, so the dog got a treat and soon I was off in the car to York! Trust me to try and pet airport security!!!