Monday 24 August 2009

Iguazú Falls - Both Sides!

Well, it was supposed to be a 22-hour bus journey from Rio, but it turned out to be 25!!! It was a very comfortable bus though, with plenty of stops, so it wasn't unpleasant, just really boring by the end of it! Of course, the air conditioning was on full blast throughout the entire trip, and although I had a jumper with me, I was still in beach mode and hadn't wrapped up well enough! I had to resort to extracting my Bolivian cardie and Peruvian legwarmers out of my daysack, which had been parcelled up since May!

Once I arrived in Foz do Iguaçú, the town on the Brazilian side of the falls, I was given a flyer for Hostel Bambu (Brazil). I didn't have any better plans, so i thought I would check it out, especially as I could take a local bus right there from the terminal. I wasn't disappointed as the staff were friendly and it was nice and clean! That evening, I had just enough energy for a McDonalds (I know, but sometimes it's the only thing that will do!) and to chat to the girls in my dorm, Laura and Claire (UK). I had a dilemma about what order to do things in, i.e. Brazil side, Paraguay, Argentinian side, or Paraguay last? Everyone was telling me not to bother with Paraguay, but you know me: another flag, another set of passport stamps, another boxed ticked!!! Of course, it all depended on the weather as well. When I arrived on Thursday afternoon, it looked like the week's rain was finally ending and the sun came out. I crossed my fingers and hoped that the forecast of two days of sun was right...

On Friday morning, I got up early and the sun was indeed out! I had a great breakfast at the hostel, procrastinated a bit more witrh Laura and Claire, then got a wind of inspiration and checked out! Soon, I was off on a bus to the falls, bought my entrance ticket and took the park bus to the start of the walking trail. Most of the cataracts are on the Argentinian side of Iguazú Falls, as are most of the attractions, but by visiting the Brazilian side, you get the best panaoramic views of the whole area. After a few moments of walking, I got my first glimpse of the famous falls. No prizes for guessing what happened next...

Yes, of course, Emma cried again!!! I swear, it is one of the most impressive things I have ever seen and it was truly spectacular, and I was so glad I was lucky enough to see it in the sunshine, especially in the morning when the sun was shining in the right direction for my photos as well! The walk took an hour or so and ended right next to the main falls on the Brazilian side, and of course I got quite wet from all the spray! I had come prepared though with only shorts and flip flops (to minimise wet clothing) and my rain mac! By the time I got back to the hostel around lunchtime, I was practically dry again!

It was then all systems go as I went into auto-pilot: instead of over-thinking my next moves as per usual, I collected my bags from the hostel and jumped on the next bus to the Argentinian border, to make the most of the good weather! It was really easy to get stamped out of Brazil and all I had to do then was wait for the next bus across the bridge into Puerto Iguazú. The sun was shining, and I was in a great mood... even when the next bus came and then promptly drove passed! Yikes, stranded in No Man's Land!!! I think the driver thought I was getting into a taxi with two other ladies that were there, but in the end it didn't matter as my ticket to continue over the border was valid for a different company! 20 minutes later, the next bus came and took me over to Argentinian immigration. Another easy process, another stamp in the passport, and I was back on the bus again, off to Hostel Bambu (Argentina).

Once I had settled in and found a cash machine that actually accepted my card, I walked along the river to Tres Fronteras, an area where you can see across the water to both Brazil and Paraguay. I'd had a great day, but I think all the travelling and excitement had taken it out of me, so after I'd made a bit of pasta, I headed to bed with my book for an early night! Good job, as I was up bright and early on Saturday morning, showered and breakfasted and at the Argentinian side by 9am!!! There was much more to see on this side, and my goodness, did I cram it all in:

- Took train then walked to Garganta del Diablo, poncho required!
- Took train then walked around the Upper Circuit
- Walked around the Lower Circuit and decided to take the boat ride then rather than return later
- Wore rain mac AND poncho but still got absolutely soaked through in the boat!
- Had packed lunch whilst trying to avoid being mobbed by coatis and bees!
- Took train to park entrance then walked along the Macuco Trail
- Walked 3 kms in 30 mins, saw Salto Arrecha and then paced it back again!
- Took train back to Garganta del Diablo again to take more pics now that the sun had moved
- Ran back to train station to catch next train back to the park entrance
- After a full 8 hours, took bus back to the hostel!

Admittedly, I didn't cry on this side of the falls, but I think that was because I had already seen them the day before, but it was still amazing to see them up close. I certainly had an emotional day though, as I laughed so loud and heartily on the boat trip - when we sailed close to some of the cataracts, I couldn't even see them as the spray was so dense and I couldn't keep my eyes open!!! Even though I was swathed in plastic, I got so wet that I was only dry again after I had completed the Macuco Trail! Luckily enough though, my top half stayed reasonably dry, so it wasn't too uncomfortable!

Yesterday morning, I was not sure what my next moves would be. I was desperately trying to find out how to buy a ticket for the World Cup qualifier between Argentina and Brazil, to be played on September 5th in Rosario. Now, I don't really like football, but before the start of this trip, I said to myself that it would be great to see either the Brazilian or Argentinian national team play. When I found out that they would be playing each other, and while I am in South America, I knew this would be an opportunity not to be missed! However, the tickets don't go on slae until 3 days before the match and then I would need to queue for HOURS at the stadium, with no guarantee that I would even get a ticket. The alternative is to book through an agency, but then the price increases tenfold...

Anyway, after trying to find this information online, with little success, the I decided to make a move towards Paraguay and the girl at the hostel told me the next bus to Posadas, by the the border, left in 20 minutes time. So, I grabbed all my bags and dashed to the bus terminal, and bought a ticket with minutes to spare! 6 hours later, I arrived in Posadas, found a hotel and crashed for the night! This morning, I got up early to find a travel agency to ask about buying a football ticket. At last, they were ble to give me the information about the on-sale date, but if I bought a ticket through them, they couldn't confirm (at that stage) where I would be able to collect the ticket - Buenos Aires or Rosario! At least I knew that nobody had a ticket as yet and in theory, any agency would be able to get on for me, so maybe it would be best to head to BA or Rosario first and make enquiries there.

Anyway, I'm now all checked out of my hotel and ready to take the local bus over the Paraguayan border to Encarnación... another country, another set of stamps for my passport!



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